by Robert Leavitt
Compost has been referred to, by loving enthusiasts, as black gold. It might not be worth as much as real gold but it is natures way of producing a highly enriched medium to help you with your growing needs. I'm going to discuss my favorite type of composting today, which is "passive" composting.
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Compost - The way to turn waste into black gold! |
In nature, decomposition is part of the cycle of life. Everything that is biodegradable will decay over a certain period of time. Let me give you some tips to building a nice pile, that you don't have to turn and water and go crazy with. The only problem with this method is that it takes substantially longer to decompose than the "active" method of composting, however if you are like me, and you have access to huge piles of leaves and really don't want to overwork, you can create compost that you can use in your garden.
1. Choose a site
It's best to choose somewhere that is out of the way. I have mine in a corner of the yard behind a big tree where you can't really see it from the road or the house. It's not that it's ugly or anything, I mean it's really just a big pile of leaves, but my wife is pretty specific about the fact that she doesn't want it near the house, so I went with the "out of sight out of mind" approach. If you are hoping to have a "steady stream" of compost, you will need more than 1 pile, I recommend 4 piles. The idea here is to build a huge pile, then leave it for a year or up to two years, so you will have to stagger your piles if you are planning to use the compost more often. Build one in the winter, one in the spring, one in the summer and one in the fall. You will figure out a system that works best for you.
Open piles should be "in" the ground, but it's not mandatory. This will collect water in it when it rains, and also shield some of the pile from the wind. Most people cover the pile with a tarp or sheet of dark plastic to retain the moisture and heat, but again it's not mandatory (though it will speed things up for you as really good compost should rise about 160-180 degrees Fahrenheit to kill dangerous bacteria and promote rapid break down).
After you choose your site, and you have dug a hole (or no hole) you can move on to step 2.
2. Fill it up with a ton of "waste".
The ideal ratio is 1 part "green" to 2 parts "brown" but again, this is not mandatory. My piles are almost always way more brown than they should be. If this is your case as well, water can help you to break this stuff down faster. Of course turning will help as well, but we are trying to do the "passive" pile and not be involved as much as traditional composting methods.
Green parts consist of organic matter, this is where the "nitrogen" comes from. This can include a lot of things that come from both your house and your yard. Here are some examples:
- Vegetable scraps - Anything you didn't use from a veggie, ends of onions, peels, etc...
- Grass clippings - From your yard cuttings.
- Roots from plants - Any weeds you pulled up and the roots too can all go in (be careful the weed or grass hasn't gone to seed if you are trying to keep weeds out of your pile, they will grow)
- Egg shells - Break em up as much as you can before adding to help them break down
- Pretty much anything that was once alive. (note: stay away from animal fats and dairy and animal bones as these will attract predators to your pile, and you don't want to wake up to a bear or raccoon in close proximity on your property)
- Animal manure - Cow, Sheep, any livestock animal. (note: it is not recommend to use human or any other domesticated animals waste. I am not sure the exact reason, and other than it being disgusting, I think it has to due with disease and illness more than anything.
Brown is where the carbon comes from. The easiest way to remember these things is that they are brown. Most of it comes from outside your home but there are a few things that you can use inside the home as well:
- Leaves - I always make piles in fall and spring when I have large amounts of leaves available
- Branches and twigs - Break these down and make sure they are thin. While a huge log will decay over time, it's going to take a VERY long time for it to happen. If you have a chipper or shredder now is the time to use it and get those bits as fine as possible to aid the process.
- Paper - Shred it up, and you can use paper from inside the home.
- Coffee grounds, with the filter - Don't throw out those coffee grounds, these are a GREAT addition to your pile. They are slightly acidic but this also increases the rate at which they will help break down you pile. You can use the filter in there too, just tear it very small into pieces to speed things up.
Those are some ideas to get you started. It is not meant by any means to be a comprehensive list, and there are several ideas floating around the web about things you could use.
If you are trying to keep your ratios correct, remember to use something to gauge it with. For example one part green could be a five gallon bucket of veggie scraps, and then two parts brown could be two five gallon buckets of shredded paper or leaves.
If you don't have your ratios correct don't despair. The pile will still break down (just not as fast). Like I said previously mine usually consist mainly of live oak leaves (and grass clippings).
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Compost pile, not much to look at I admit, but it is vital to growing strong healthy plants.
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3. Give it a turn!
After you have your materials in the pile, your gonna have to break out the shovel or pitchfork and give it a turn. Mix it all up together in your pit and remove anything you see that's too big to break down.
4. Hose her down.
Get out the hose and thoroughly drench the pile with water. This will kick start your process. Do this once, you shouldn't have to add much water to your pile. It will depend on your rainfall, but turn the pile some first and see how much moisture is in the center of the pile. If the inside is wet, it's best to forget!
5. Cover it up...or don't! I don't cover my pile. There are arguments for and against covering the pile. The one that breaks the deal for me is the fact that it retains moisture and can cause the pile to be too wet. If you must cover, either do it with a tarp from above, or with a cloth that can breathe (like burlap).
6. Forget it! The best part about passive composting is that you can forget it! You can come back in a few months time (or even a few years) and see how it's doing. If you want to you can turn the pile and wet it back down, or not...it's entirely up to you! (Remember don't get it too wet as discussed in step #4).
7. Remember it!
After your pile has broken down and you have fine compost remaining, mix it all up and enjoy it, because it's a great addition to any soil.
8. Test it
Test your compost with an NPK analysis kit to see what the levels of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) of your compost are. You can also test its pH levels. My piles often will often lean towards the acidic side if I have citrus available. You can counter this high level of acidity by adding some lime to your pile. The lime takes a long time to raise the pH so it's OK to add it in the beginning to give it some time to work!
9. Mix it!
Be sure to mix it into your growing medium or soil. I don't recommend growing directly in composting without mixing it with topsoil, garden soil, potting soil, etc... Be sure to retest your NPK and pH to give you a reference point when determining what amount or type of fertilizer to use.
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Finished Compost |
Thanks for reading, and remember "Keep on Digging!"
You can learn more about Robert Leavitt on his
Google + page.